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Expectations Fulfilled
by Michael Whitcraft
It is natural to have expectations when
traveling. I, for one, use my expectations to gauge the
success of a trip. That is why when returning from a recent
trip to Portugal and Spain, I began reflecting on whether
it had lived up to my expectations. However, to answer this
question, I first had to set out very clearly what these
expectations were.
I concluded that when traveling to Europe,
my primary hope is to experience firsthand, the spirit of
a civilization that was turned entirely towards God and
His Church. I hope to see the remnants of Christian Civilization,
which began with the Middle Ages and continued on its course
until diverted by the heinous revolutionary process,1
now more than five centuries old.
That is not to say that bad people and
rulers did not exist during the Middle Ages. However, the
impetus of that society was to establish the Kingdom of
Christ on earth. The effects are still apparent today in
everything from art and architecture to cuisine and music.
My expectations would be fulfilled to the
extent that I saw in these effects the glory of that past
civilization.
Although the manifestations of this civilization
and how it touches those who visit its ruins are as varied
as there are people who go to Europe, I hope to develop
three aspects and discuss whether my expectations were fulfilled.
Balance
The first effect of Christian Civilization
I will discuss is what I will refer to as balance. Balance
is that quality whereby something always possesses the complimentary
opposite of its extreme virtues or to create equilibrium.
Such balancing of extremes is seen in
the relationship between God’s Mercy and Justice.
Thus, the same God, Who shed every drop of His Most Precious
Blood for man in a supreme act of mercy, justly sends the
wicked to an eternal punishment.
This balanced expression of life’s
complimentary opposites is an essential element for any
civilization that strives towards the Christian ideal and
European Christendom was filled with it.
This is evidenced in everything from its
architecture and artwork to its cuisine and music. In my
travels through Portugal, I saw this balance clearly while
visiting the Cathedral in Oporto.
Built in the twelfth century, the Cathedral
of Oporto demonstrates austerity and fortitude. It is the
work of a people who saw the world as a continual struggle
and valley of tears, fraught with difficulties of every
sort. This is seen in the fortress-like appearance of the
Cathedral’s façade and exterior of rough stone.
The immensity of the pillars that hold up the ceiling on
the inside, impress one with the weight of their burden.
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However, the Cathedral’s towers are
topped with delicate spires bestowing levity on the surroundings
and pointing upwards towards a merciful God, Who overcame
the world and wants us to gain an eternal reward of joyful
existence with Him. Likewise, the delicate vaulting in the
ceiling of the cloister which sits upon light double columns,
strengthen the convictions that Christ’s yoke is easy
and His burden light. Several sculptures of the Blessed
Virgin throughout the structure reassure the faithful that
a compassionate Mother is ever willing to come to their
aid.
This balance is present even in the cuisine
of Europe. While on pilgrimage at Fatima, Portugal, my brother
(who was traveling with me) and I sought a quick lunch.
For such occasions, modern society offers fast food, with
its aggressive, one-dimensional assault on the palate. We
opted more traditional European fare at a local grocery
store, where we purchased homemade bread, cheese, chouriço2
and a bottle of wine.
Although very strong tasting, the flavors
did not assault our palates. The food was simple but balanced
and full of nuances. This experience stood out in sharp
contrast to the thoughtless meals I have endured at many
a fast food restaurant, where food explodes with sensation
but lacks any of that transcendent nuance that feeds the
soul.
Combativeness
An often forgotten truth today is
that the Church on earth is a militant Church. While the
majority of Catholics are called to wage a spiritual battle
against the world, the flesh and the devil, this militancy
in the past did not exclude the use of force in defense
of the Church. Thus, St. Bernard of Clairvaux wrote the
rule for the Order of the Templars, which prescribed that
its monks wage war in defense of the Church.
Remnants of this military spirit are evident
throughout Spain and Portugal, whose histories recount long
struggles against Muslim conquerors. In Spain, the Reconquest
took nearly eight centuries. These long centuries of fighting
strongly marked the culture of these countries.
Although the remnants of this crusading
spirit exist throughout Portugal and Spain, it was especially
evident at the Templar monastery of Tomar and the Basilica
of Santiago de Compostela.
If the mere existence of a military order
demonstrates this spirit, touring a Templar stronghold immerses
one in it. The monastery of Tomar is full of all the austerity
and trappings you would expect to find in a monastery. The
chapel has choir stalls for praying the Divine Office. There
is a chapter room and religious imagery abounds. Yet the
exterior shows that these monks did more than pray.
It juts out of the surroundings like a
great fortress. High and imposing walls surround the entire
compound. These walls are topped with crenulations to allow
archers to shoot without exposing themselves to enemy fire.
Viewing the combination of the monastic
and military lives, one is drawn to the conclusion that
so perfect a consonance of such diverse fields of action
could only have found a home within the Catholic Church.
The Basilica of Santiago de Compostela
also portrays this crusading spirit. Shortly after the miraculous
recovery of the remains of St. James the Apostle, the saint
appeared on a white horse to lead the Christian Spaniards
in battle against Moorish invaders. Instantly, the Apostle
gained the name Santiago Matomoros (St. James the Moorslayer)
and became a patron of the Reconquest.
Although the idea of a saint apostle coming
down from Heaven to lead men into battle may seem strange
to the modern mind, nothing could be more normal to medieval
man. Muslim invaders were endangering not only the future
of Catholic Spain, but all Christendom. Facing this threat
with force was not only entirely just, but obligatory.
Remembrances of this apparition abound
throughout the city of Santiago starting with the famous
statue of Santiago Matomoros in the Basilica. The statue
portrays St. James on horseback, slaying turban-clad moors
who surround him
There were two other statues remembering
St. James’ military feats in the square in front of
the Basilica.
Faith
The monastery at Alcobaça,
Portugal embodied another element of Christian Civilization:
faith. The monastery was founded in 1153 by Portugal’s
first king, Afonso Henriques. At its height, it could house
999 monks, with one place reserved for the king, who lodged
with the monks while traveling in that region.
What struck me most as I meandered through
ancient cloisters was the profound link between Church and
State that existed. Each worked in its own sphere but rather
than being misled by the false notion that the state must
be agnostic, all civil authority, indeed all of society,
accepted the Church as true. Thus, a monastery that was
built by a king and received the king as a guest was normal.
I was immediately struck by the contrast
between this society and ours which prohibits public schools
from putting up Christmas decorations. The difference is
that the men of Christian Civilization were men of Faith
and all society reflected that Faith. This is evident from
great monasteries like Alcobaça, but also from the
religious images that blanketed the city squares and buildings
that I saw throughout Spain and Portugal.
Expectations Fulfilled
When leaving for Spain and Portugal,
I had very defined expectations for my trip. I wanted to
see and feel the reality of Christian Civilization. My travels
fulfilled these expectations entirely.
I experienced the balance of complimentary
opposites in the Cathedral of Oporto and the simple European
cuisine. I felt the crusading spirit in the Templar stronghold
of Tomar and the city of Santiago de Compostela and I witnessed
the spirit of Faith which permeated all society, but especially
great monasteries such as Alcobaça. I was imbued
with the reality that a truly Christian order did exist
and has left its remnants for all who care to experience
them.
If you have traveled to Europe in the
past, reflect on your trip. Investigate whatever you admired
and see for yourself whether or not it fits into this panorama
of Christendom. If you plan on traveling there in the future
take a few moments of your trip to analyze the remnants
of Christian Civilization and allow yourself to marvel at
its beauty.
When I tried this, my expectations
were fulfilled. I am certain yours will be fulfilled as
well.
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